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| Illustration by Jolain |
As a designer I’ve always obsessed over silhouette and
proportion and had much to consider while looking at the Fall 2012
collections. I’ve honed it down to
five categories that I feel best offer a glimpse of the shape of things to
come.
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This idea has been floating around for several seasons now
but has fully come into its own for fall. The natural waist is nipped in, often
emphasized with a full skirt reminiscent of Dior’s famous New Look of
1947. Gabriele Colengelo’s take
looked anything but retro with his nipped waist pantsuit, placing the fullness
at the hips and sleeve, and his coat that nips the fullness in again at the
knee. Francisco Costa for Calvin
Klein made this silhouette modern by employing an austere aesthetic and juxtaposing
leather with sober fabrics.
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| Calvin Klein |
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| Gabriele Colangelo |
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| Gabriele Colangelo |
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| Christian Dior |
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| Chado Ralph Rucci |
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| Valentino |
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| Jil Sander |
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Simple and clean with an emphasis on a lean body conscious
line defines this silhouette for fall.
Lengths fall anywhere from several inches below the knee to the ankle
for both day and evening.
|
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| Gabriele Colangelo |
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| Giulietta |
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| Jil Sander |
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| Valentino |
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| Michael Kors |
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| Neil Barrett |
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This silhouette breaks the unwritten rule that if there is
volume on top the bottom should be sleek and visa versa. Though there are really no rules
anymore, a certain balance must be struck to make all this volume appear
luxurious rather than cumbersome.
Designers sometimes raised the hem for a peek of knee or added a belt to
control the fullness. Most
importantly the fabric must have a rich fluidity that moves with and hints at
the body beneath.
|
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| Carven |
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| Chloe |
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| Chloe |
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| Chanel |
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| Nina Ricci |
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| Dolce & Gabbana |
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| Giulietta |
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Short lengths are hardly news but what does merit
conversation is the new softness applied to short. With high necks, long sleeves and ease in cut, short
lengths look new when it’s more demure than racy. I love Carven’s streetwise schoolgirl looks.
|
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| Carven |
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| Carven |
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| Stella McCartney |
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| Sacai |
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| No. 21 |
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| Lanvin |
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Raf Simon’s knockout oversized coat from his flawless Jil
Sander Fall 2011 collection paved the way for the trend for super-sized coats
this fall. Precise tailoring and
bold colors make these coats a force to be reckoned with. I predict we’ll be seeing even more
oversized silhouettes in seasons to come.
|
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| Jil Sander Fall 2011 |
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| Celine |
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| Celine |
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| Neil Barrett |
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| Chloe |
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| Comme des Garcons Images from style.com |
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