|Illustration by Jolain|
As a designer I’ve always obsessed over silhouette and proportion and had much to consider while looking at the Fall 2012 collections. I’ve honed it down to five categories that I feel best offer a glimpse of the shape of things to come.
This idea has been floating around for several seasons now but has fully come into its own for fall. The natural waist is nipped in, often emphasized with a full skirt reminiscent of Dior’s famous New Look of 1947. Gabriele Colengelo’s take looked anything but retro with his nipped waist pantsuit, placing the fullness at the hips and sleeve, and his coat that nips the fullness in again at the knee. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein made this silhouette modern by employing an austere aesthetic and juxtaposing leather with sober fabrics.
|Chado Ralph Rucci|
Simple and clean with an emphasis on a lean body conscious line defines this silhouette for fall. Lengths fall anywhere from several inches below the knee to the ankle for both day and evening.
|Dolce & Gabbana|
Short lengths are hardly news but what does merit conversation is the new softness applied to short. With high necks, long sleeves and ease in cut, short lengths look new when it’s more demure than racy. I love Carven’s streetwise schoolgirl looks.
|Jil Sander Fall 2011|
|Comme des Garcons|
Images from style.com